Bin selection for carders – Updated Beginners Tutorial
Bin selection for carders.
Ok guys, here it is. Sorry, it took me a while but these days I am a busy man. This is kinda a quick draft, and when I think some more I will add to it. If you have something to add please do! If you have something you disagree with then keep it to yourself I dont care, this is from 6 years of the in-store experience. Enjoy!
So you’re trying to make your instore better, your getting what you think are shitty dumps, or just starting out.
For whatever your reason for reading this, your instore all starts with you. Some will be very sad when they hear that there is no magic way to find a great bin, and when you do find those great bins chances are the supply is limited and you will have to move on to new ones. The only way to keep your success rate high is to do much research into the bank in which you are looking to purchase bins. Bin selection for carders.
1. Finding Local Bins
Ok, so this is where a lot of people are confused. It is necessary to use a LOCAL bin in most cases to have success. You see ALL banks have fraud detection methods to keep their users safe. Some are more sophisticated than others, mostly in general banks are looking for patterns in spending and location. What I mean is if the owner of the dump, only uses their card in Kentucky, and you try using it in New York, this is gonna raise a big flag to the bank. So, we must find bins which are local to our area which we will be working.
Now you’re saying, ok well how do I do that? Here are some great methods:
A. Look in your wallet! This is great because you know exactly how your dump will perform. If you can go buy a 4K lappy without a problem, chances are this bin will perform the same! But sometimes not, and I will go into more detail a Lil later on that.
B. Search for a list of local banks. Google is your buddy even while searching bins for in-store! Try this in google “Kentucky Credit Unions” I would bet you will find a page with a list of most of the credit unions in your state, and a nifty link to their site! Now, take your bin list [avaliable on this board] and find the bin numbers that correspond to your local credit unions. Make a list of this and save it. We’re gonna use it later!
C. Old CVV or CCs! Ok so I think a lot of people dont know this, a BIN number not only tells you what bank it belongs to but WHERE it is located. So, if bin 414705 is owned by a person in New York then most every person from that bin is located there as well! So go find some old cc, or buy new ones and search as many bins as you can find from your state. Add them to your list, make sure to include the name of the bank, not just the BIN number.
2. RESEARCH!
Now you have made this huge list of bins you are sure are local to you cause you followed User123’s tips to a T. Now the fun part! You must research each bin extensively, I want you to go to the websites and find out as much as you can about the bins. Here are some things you want to look for:
A. Very High Credit Limits! Banks that offer huge limits, will give you better success. This is because with a 100K limit, 2K on a swipe just isn’t that much
B. Credit Unions, while their bins are mostly hard to find, have lower security!
C. Look for banks that offer Very low interest/no interest and other rewards for spending money. If a user chooses a bank with low interest/no interest and other rewards they most likely choose this bank because they are actually going to be using the card. The more activity on the card the less likely the card will be flagged, like I said earlier, banks look for patterns. One thing that will cause a decline or CFA is the cardholder has not used their card for a year and all of a sudden is trying to spend 2K. This is not the user’s normal pattern and will cause a red flag. So to sum it up, bins which have more activity will work better.
You can find much of this out just from visiting their website, or if you are really having trouble and a bank looks promising but there not posting the info, Call them! They will be more than happy to tell you all about them, use common sense and dont ask stupid questions. Make sure you play the part of a customer unless you want to get hung up on.
3. Tips
A. So you had one dump from the 10 you bought of the same bin perform great, but the rest sucked. Look at the numbers, try to buy only this bin that expires in the same year as the one that worked, so if it expired in 2010 try to get some with the same. Look at the 7th number, if the first 7 are 4325679 and none of the others that sucked have that 7th number, buy the ones that do.
B. Stay away from Federal Credit Unions, in my experience, they suck.
C. All dumps can perform differently, some you must use for one large swipe. And that’s all you will get. Some if you buy a few small things, and then make a big swipe will work great. Some you will buy something small and it’s dead. You must experiment, once you find promising looking dumps if they not working like you think they should try diffrent purchasing methods. Bin selection for carders.
D. MOST DUMPS WILL ONLY WORK FOR ONE BIG SWIPE!
E. Time of the year affects dumps, during big spending holidays, dumps will work incredibly. This is because the card users are active, and the banks expect users to be spending.
F. Vendors with fresh bases are better, it means the cards are more active recently.
G. Small Banks almost always work better than large banks, fewer card holders mean chances of getting active cards are better.
H. If you found this tut useful, and your feeling giving dont be afraid to hook your boy up with something!
F. Vendors with fresh bases are better, which means the cards are more active recently.
This can go true or false. If you freshly hacked a base and start selling them right away. LE will detect patterns on where the base came from based on all similar purchases that the people who got frauded will have. Otherwise, I did like it.
The little issue, has been a while I dont cash dumps over POS, I got sum Amex, and the mother fuckers when I swipe and everything at first it’s good, it says some shit about the disconnect, something like that, I try it in my own store, and 2 other more, the same stuff. my English is not native so maybe its something different as I’m translating but it sure says the word disconnect
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